the Praha metro

one of the very cool-retro-sexy-funky-striking subway stations in Prague. Different stations had different colour schemes (one was all gold!), though not all stations had this. I loved them.

sleep well..

We stayed on a boat one night, when we visited Halong Bay, about 3.5 hours from Hanoi. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is a large bay with innumerable limestone formations that are little islands poking out of the water. Its not quite certain how they are formed, though there is,mostly, a consensus that they are spectacular. (There are 0ver 3000 such islands including those in adjoining Cat Ba National Park)

We cruised around on the boat, ate, chilled, kayaked, and at night the boat was anchored at this spot, designated for boats to bob around overnight. It was quite beautiful, despite the occassional waft of diesel fumes and very distant (and very occassional) sound of a karaoke from one of the boats who believed that was the best way to spend your evening in such a beautiful place. It was a unique experience, and quite something else.

The smile of Ta Phin

That day, we hired a bike and rode around, above and below Sapa. It was fantastic, the freedom. About 15km from Sapa we visited a minority village called Ta Phin. Past the village centre, which is accustomed to and expects tourists (though we saw none), we went further out. The rather narrow road led us through terraced hills and occasional huts. Then we stopped. A tiny stream babbled, a man with his plough walked in the distance, a few buffaloes were herded away. D spotted an abandoned hut- it's porch a place for us to sit and do nothing in the shade.



This most delightful girl found us at the abandoned hut and lit up our biking break with her giggles.

back and blue

hanoi-halong bay-sapa-hanoi, and back.

the clicking competition

more of the Clicking mania at Bakheng

Siam Snapshot- deadly street tom yam

Siam Snapshot- leaf& flame

Wat Phra Singh, Chiang Mai

Siam Snapshot - toilet training

Siam Snapshot - 3.B

Beach,Beer, Bliss!

Siam Snapshot - postcards

Day V- evening

…but we are readying to leave, for that very light is dying, and we wish to make it onto the streets before sundown…

So ended my last proper post, weeks ago; just as D and I had reached Fethiye, what is now months ago. We had dumped our bags into the comfortable looking Ferah Pension up at one end of the main town, past the marina and a up a little hill.

We set out toward this marina now; I find I still need to tell myself that I am sauntering past a bay in the Mediterranean littered with yachts much the way streets I have lived most of my life might be littered with bicycles or auto-rickshaws. It is an observation I will revel in pointing out, to myself, over the next couple of days.

Almost immediately, after a few places named ‘The Yacht Hotel’ or something similar, we curiously trundle down steps that take us from the road overlooking the marina onto the planked stretch itself. It is lined with luxurious yachts; walkways lead to more of them- posh in all their Hollywood-fuelled (in our minds) desirability. It doesn’t particularly feel like we are in turkey anymore, if that could make sense. It feels like we are more in a getaway for the rich- maybe the south of France, or the Italian coast, or the Med- but wait, this is the Mediterranean. Soon we realise our walk is a pleasure we are not allowed. This dawns on us when a guard tell us we cannot go on to the walkways leading off. Of course, we know that- “yacht owners only” only gleaming steel plates is quite clear. As it turns out, we are not allowed on the main stretch we have just finished strolling across either- but we have finished after all, so we continue to the more ‘normal’ area.

Fethiye is slowly being bathed in the gentle light that an evening sun brings, gradually yet quickly moving to disappear behind the hills on one side of the bay. These distant, nameless hills are and odd mix of gold and pink, and we find ourselves on a broad gangway pretty much in the middle of the marina. It is more empty that it suggests it should, and it is flanked by local boats rented out to tourists. At its end towers a large green boat that we peer curiously into. It’s open central area, much like a dining room and the rich coloured wood all around, are alien to our eyes. We climb a step or two to look into it, and resist getting right on. But we do sit there awhile- a gaudy green boat here, towering Turkish flags there, glimmering water ahead.

We pass by the statue of Fethi bey, a local hero tragically killed while flying, early in the 20th century. Its in a tiny park by the promenade (if that’s what one is to call it), in the midst of boat-operator booths and stalls selling postcards, handsome stray dogs and cafes invitingly offering a beer, all in Pounds Sterling.


As we sit on a bench at nearly the other end of the marina now, a family returns from a day at sea, and in it. Their diving gear drips with water, their fair but tanned skin looking completely at home in this haven for British tourists. We wait awhile for the orb to disappear behind the hills, then walk away, heading into the streets of Fethiye town.

Day IV- lunch

Lunch was not particularly significant except it was the only reason we left the site at Ephesus. If we could have eaten something, anything within the site itself, we would have, and remained at the Grand Theatre till sundown. But our stomach grumbled, and rumbled, and we walked out eventually just past 3pm, and past this absurd sign.
Across from which we settled down and hungrily ate gozleme, which we had not tried before. They were moderately satisfying but nothing spectacular. Thin and crepe like-and stuffed with meat or cheese- they were drier version of kathi rolls back in India, except there was no tangy green chutney with them, only ketchup and mayonnaise.