Day Zero- eat

By the time we check in, unpack, washup, change some Euros with Ismail Hakki at the hotel (money changers are going to be shut now, we still don’t have liras) and leave, we are starting to feel tired from the flight. I guess it was about 2am for us by then, and instead of hunting, we went to a place recommended for its cheap backpacker-friendly food- Doy! Doy!, or “Fill up! Fill up!” is stone’s throw from our hotel/ pension room, and though its much blurbed rooftop (“we have terrace”-of course this photo is from the daytime) is shut for the night because of the cold, we troop up three flights of stairs and past a considerable number of travellers eating to finally see our first menu. It is full of kebaps. Not kebabs, not kababs, but kebaps. But we don’t order any.

D calls for a mixed meze plate (mezes are Turkish appetisers, usually cold but sometimes hot, served with bread), I can't help but ask for a veg pide, or turkish pizza. There seem to be more than a just a couple of vegetarian items, so my prospects don’t look too bad- as always, this perks D up, who feels happier eating with that knowledge.

Our first meal is delicious. The pide is tasty, not least because of its differently familiar cheese- aromatic, a little salty and sour and very juicy. Now I know the food posts are going to be a tough ask- my mouth has been watering the past two minutes. D’s mixed platter possibly pleases her even more- there are about 6 mezes in it, and three of those- yes, three- are patlican (eggplant) based. We expected this, but to actually see it is, I can only presume from D’s squeals of excitement, a big delight for her. And there are fatly cut green olives- perfect first meal after all we've heard.
We follow it up with a glass of Turkish kahve (coffee), which, I must admit, only the bravest coffee lover must try- it is seriously strong. It would be our first, and somehow, unfortunately last, Turkish kahve.

We were satiated but also passing out by now. Abandoning plans of roaming the night market we had made our way through some time ago, we return to the hotel and crash out in no time.